In the Shadow of Vesuvius

Today we’re in Italy, visiting the ruins of Herculaneum, nestled in the modern city of Ercolano. Herculaneum is the sister town to Pompeii. Both perished in the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79AD. Pompeii, the more famous of the two towns, was destroyed by falling rocks, debris, and ash; Herculaneum, on the other side of the mountain, was spared from massive falling rocks but was completely buried in ash. This means that more of it survived intact. Two story buildings and artwork can still be seen with their original colours and clarity. Herculaneum was a smaller town (compared to Pompeii) and today it garners less tourists, which is why we chose to visit it.

The volcano of Vesuvius exploded during the years that Christianity was in its infancy. It had only been about 14 years since Paul was executed in Rome, and the new faith-movement was gaining ground. We know that Paul was in the area of Herculaneum, around 59-60AD, when he visited Puteoli just 30km away from Herculaneum.

Acts 28:11-15
[Luke:] After three months we set sail on an Alexandrian ship which had wintered at the island, and which had the Twin Brothers for its figurehead. After we put in at Syracuse, we stayed there for three days. From there we sailed around and arrived at Rhegium, and a day later a south wind came up, and on the second day we came to Puteoli. There we found some brothers and sisters, and were invited to stay with them for seven days; and that is how we came to Rome. And from there the brothers and sisters, when they heard about us, came as far as the Market of Appius and the Three Inns to meet us; and when Paul saw them, he thanked God and took courage.

In the 1930s archaeologists in Herculaneum discovered a small servants-quarters room at the back of a residence. In the centre of the wall there was an indentation of a cross in a plastered rectangle. This hints that there may have been Christians in Herculaneum, although they would have probably hid in secret. Christians were persecuted at the time, many finding themselves in the great Arenas facing lions and violent executioners. It appears that the Herculaneum cross had nails on either side of it, meaning something may have hung there to cover the cross and keep it hidden. It’s a stark reminder of the dangers early Christians faced in the harsh age of dominating Roman power.

Herculaneum is a very humbling place to be, a reminder that life is fragile and precious… something that Paul frequently preached. He emphasised that our bodies are weak but our Spirit is what keeps us alive:

Romans 8:10-14, 35-39

If Christ is in you, though the body is dead because of sin, yet the spirit is alive because of righteousness. But if the Spirit of Him who raised Jesus from the dead dwells in you, He who raised Christ Jesus from the dead will also give life to your mortal bodies through His Spirit who dwells in you.

So then, brothers and sisters, we are under obligation, not to the flesh, to live according to the flesh— for if you are living in accord with the flesh, you are going to die; but if by the Spirit you are putting to death the deeds of the body, you will live. For all who are being led by the Spirit of God, these are sons and daughters of God…

…Who will separate us from the love of God? Will tribulation, or trouble, or persecution, or famine, or nakedness, or danger, or sword? Just as it is written:

“For your sake we are killed all day long; we were regarded as sheep to be slaughtered.”

But in all these things we overwhelmingly conquer through Him who loved us. For I am convinced that neither death, nor life, nor angels, nor principalities, nor things present, nor things to come, nor powers, nor height, nor depth, nor any other created thing will be able to separate us from the love of God that is in Christ Jesus our Lord.

Paul was quoting Psalm 44:22 but it was very much relevant to his dangerous life wandering across the Mediterranean. Life throws curveballs at every turn, but you are loved by God. He is on your side. There is nothing you can’t overcome, and Paul knew it! Walking the streets of Herculaneum reminds me that volcanos, falling rocks, and gaseous clouds may destroy our bodies, but the Spirit of God protects us from permanent death and annihilation. We live because God lives in us… and that’s worth remembering!

Next week: Flying home